Kaira van Wijk is a freelance journalist who regularly contributes to Vogue, Vogue Living, Financial Times, Konfekt, MilK Deco, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle International. Originally from Amsterdam, she is currently based between Zurich and Paris.

Regimes: Sophie Carbonari

Regimes: Sophie Carbonari

Facialist Sophie Carbonari has turned skincare into an art form. an intuitive way to connect with clients and elevate their mood, using plant-based remedies to soothe and revitalise.

‘I can’t give you a step-by-step of what I do. My treatment is always adapted to the individual and I work very intuitively.’
— Sophie Carbonari

Every morning, on a walk to her studio at Paris’s Palais Royal, facialist Sophie Carbonari stops for a coffee at Le Partisan in the Marais. But there’s another mood-boosting habit that energises her even more: making time for little moments of chit-chat. “I love the fast-paced energy of this city and the eclectic crowd here, people of all ages,” she says. “I always meet someone new or bump into someone from the neighbourhood.”
Though her idea of a good morning hinges on these lively interactions, she also likes to ensure that she carves out pockets of peace. “I adore living alone in my petit appartement in Oberkampf,” she says. “Maybe a little too much! One thing’s for sure, no one touches my sleep. At 21.00, the lights go out.”

Carbonari is spirited and radiant, and exudes an energy that’s both infectious and calming – qualities that suit her well in her line of work. As one of the city’s most in-demand facialists, she works closely with her clients. “Working one-on-one with people the way I do is incredibly intimate,” she says. “For me, it’s not just about aesthetics. I work on an energetic level. The face holds so many acupressure points connected to the whole body. Someone might come in smiling but as soon as I touch their skin, I can immediately sense how they really feel. Sometimes the connective tissue is all locked up and we need to release that tension. Occasionally, tears flow.”

Carbonari began her formal training at 16 in Nîmes and opened her first practice in Provence at 21 – though she closed it soonafter, realising that she needed more experience. To achieve that, she moved to London, where two years at a Japanese wellness clinic shaped her understanding of facial massage, shiatsu and energy work. A formative stint in New York followed, working in medi spas and at a plastic surgeon’s clinic. Along the way, she studied techniques from lymphatic drainage to Ayurveda and Japanese kobido facial massages, which she now draws from for her personalised, intuitive approach rooted in deep-muscle stimulation. Since opening her current studio in Paris in 2023, she has offered her signature SC Protocol, drawing artists, creatives and A-listers from Naomi Campbell to Penélope Cruz for its sculpting effect and emotional impact. “I can’t give you a step-by-step of what I do,” says Carbonari. “My treatment is always adapted to the individual and I work very intuitively.”

The barista calls out her name and she picks up her cappuccino. “Two coffees a day, max,” she says. “Then I switch to tea.” Her favourite brew was concocted with Japanese-French tea master Marie Méon. “Lemon peel, lemon balm and plenty of ginger, which helps me to both revitalise and unwind.”

Carbonari hails from the Camargue, a wild, untamed region in the south of France that’s nestled between the Mediterranean and the Rhône delta. She settled in Paris five years ago and still longs for moments of connection with nature. “I can’t go without my one-hour morning walk,” she says. “If I skip it, I just feel off. I like to take a route along the Seine. Being near a vast body of water grounds me.” She embarks on her walk straight after her morning routine. “Hot lemon water, a piece of fruit, a shower, looking after my braids if I’m not wearing my hair out, a touch of skincare and a flick of eyeliner – and I’m out the door.”

Her childhood in the Camargue had a profound effect on her. This landscape, with its marshlands, salt flats and lagoons, is home to the chevaux de Camargue, white horses that roam freely. “My siblings and I spent our childhood playing around fields of lavender and lilac that surrounded our home, which left a lasting impression, as did my parents’ extensive collection of perfumes.”
Scent is a key part of the skincare formulations that she creates under her brand name S. As we cross over from the North Marais into the 1st arrondissement, we pass the Herboristerie du Palais Royal, which dates back to 1739. In this Old-World apothecary, shelves are lined with herbal teas, essential oils, dried herbs and roots, honey and plant-based remedies. “This is where I source all of my raw ingredients,” says Carbonari “Most are local to France but I also love to use ylang-ylang water.” The ingredients that she chooses – save for elements such as hyaluronic acid – are 99 per cent natural.

Just around the corner, we step into the Palais Royal gardens and make our way along the tree-lined walkway. Soft light filters through the leaves and the bustle of the city softens. Tucked inside one of the grand buildings that frame the gardens, Carbonari’s studio feels like a haven. The entrance is through Théorème Éditions, a gallery known for contemporary design and artisan pieces. Her treatment room feels enveloping and serene. Beside a cloud-like bed piled high with linen blankets and down duvets stands a vintage wooden daybed, above which hangs a three-panel painting, reminiscent of a blue sky, by artist Kaï Chun Chang. Light pours in through the windows, casting a soft glow. Many people doze off during treatments, waking up to the view of the lush garden.

At a cabinet by the window, Carbonari opens an onyx-black glass jar. “This is a face mask,” she says, revealing what resemble tiny white feathers suspended in a milky bath. “It’s caffeine and hyaluronic acid particles in a botanical infusion of plants, including immortelle, which is known for its anti-inflammatory benefits and ability to boost circulation.” It’s all made by hand in her small Parisian flat, then brought down to the studio. “I never cook, so my kitchen at home is basically my laboratory.”

“Art has always been oxygen for me,” she says, recalling a stint in New York during which she worked on a project with artist Prune Nourry, sanding plaster and installing sculptures. “That experience taught me how physical and intuitive creating can be. And it’s the same when I work with the face. To me, skin is a material, a living surface. It’s a form of art in itself.”

sophiecarbonari.com

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