The artist's way: Florence Cools
Florence Cools, the Flemish creative director behind slow fashion label La Collection, lives between Antwerp and Paris with her husband, Artur Tadevosian. For Bazaar, she opens the doors to her belgian townhouse. Inside, a tranquil haven awaits, where old-world charm meets modern sophistication.
“‘Perhaps that distinctly Belgian identity lies in the meticulous attention to detail. I’m obsessed with immaculate fits and finishes’”
Just inside the entrance of Florence’s home, which she and her partner Artur acquired three years ago, a monumental canvas with abstract black-and-white strokes commands attention. 'That works beautifully in such a classic entryway,' I remark spontaneously. Florence starts laughing: 'It’s no masterpiece by any means, we didn’t get it at the museum. I painted it myself with oil paint and charcoal, but I’m not technically skilled at all. Before I start designing a new collection, I always need to do something else first – whether that’s sketching, painting, or sculpting. It’s like I need to warm up before I can finally begin my design process.'
Florence's atelier occupies the second floor of the elegant townhouse, where she later gives me a tour. 'Sorry for the mess, I’m fully immersed in my design process. Everything else is usually tidy, but this space has turned into a bit of creative chaos,' she notes with a smile. A piece of fabric is loosely draped over a mannequin by a large window that bathes the room in natural light, while her solid wood desk is scattered with textile books and swatches. 'I love working at home, tucked away in my cocoon. Of course, I also collaborate with my team, who mainly work at the office above our shop in the city center. But sometimes I need to get bored, even a bit lonely, to tap into my innermost creativity.' And Artur? Florence laughs, 'He’s stationed in our warehouse, the least aesthetic of all our spaces. It is the beating heart of our business, so that’s where he prefers to be.'
Aesthetically speaking, the grand monumental building where they live is surely remarkable. Located in Zurenborg, a district in Southeast Antwerp known for its high concentration of patrician houses in Art Nouveau, Jugendstil, and other fin-de-siècle styles, it presents a picturesque view even from street level. But once over the threshold, it feels as though you’ve stepped into a bygone era - if not for the couple’s choice to fill the spaces with modernist decor finds alongside vintage pieces, all in a monochromatic palette. 'I rarely wear colour myself, maybe a deep red accent now and then,' she adds. The result feels balanced and natural.
After passing through a small and then a large reception hall with high ceilings, the three living rooms - a music room with records from Black Sabbath to The Doors, a sitting room, and a dining room - stretch out along the street side. With their curved walls, it feels as though you’re continuously entering a graceful salon. On the other side of the long hallway, the open kitchen and garden are located. 'We kept the layout the same. The real work was in restoring all the original elements.' She laughs: 'Our fathers, both practical in nature, thought: what are you getting yourselves into?! The house was begging for a complete renovation. Renewed woodwork, mouldings, and let’s not forget entirely new electrics. It was a huge task, but definitely worth it.'
It doesn't need to be too refined: 'There’s still a small crack in the marble in some places,' she says, pointing to a window higher up in the living room, 'and there’s a piece missing from the shutter. But that just adds to the charm.' This attitude also says something about Florence's design philosophy: 'I’m minimalist, but I don’t like it when something is too simple, as if it’s straight out of a catalogue. Then I’ll introduce something like a stool made from a wood that doesn’t match the rest of the woods in the space. In my view, that brings a new dimension, more character. Decorating also needs some space for growth. First, you live in a place, then you start hunting at flea markets and galleries, and slowly the interior takes shape.'
It's the height of summer in Antwerp, and we find ourselves in the garden. What was once an untamed wilderness when they first bought the house has been transformed into a serene urban oasis, featuring a terrace constructed from concrete. A few steps down, a lush lawn unfolds, dotted with pebble-grey stones that seem to stretch in a line toward the horizon. 'I initially dreamed of a Mediterranean garden, but that doesn’t work in this climate,' Florence laughs. 'Now, it has more of a Japanese vibe. When we first viewed the house, the garden was the deciding factor for me.' It’s a free-spirited haven for their French bulldog, Ozzy, and Florence’s personal retreat, with a secluded terrace at the far end, encircled by ivy-clad walls. 'You almost forget you’re in the city,' she reflects. 'In a way, it feels like a return to my childhood at my parents’ countryside home. I’m both a city dweller and an outdoorsy type.'
Instead of her signature silhouette – a wide tunic, a floor-length coat or structured blazer, and tailored trousers cinched at the waist with, for instance, a shawl – today, in the sweltering heat, she opts for a simple slip dress from La Collection. Clients often tell her that they can sense a distinctly Belgian identity in her designs. 'It’s hard to define when you’re part of it,' she says. 'Perhaps it’s the meticulous attention to detail, the immaculate fits and finishes. That’s something I’m quite obsessed with.'
Florence's love for nature and design was instilled in her from a young age. She grew up in a family of artists. 'In the sense that many in our family were involved in something creative,' she explains. 'My uncle, who is also my godfather, is a professional artist, my mother sculpts – one of the busts in the living room is her work – and my grandmother was what they used to call a seamstress. But in my opinion, she was a couturière; she made clothing for the entire village, with a waiting list. Above all, she worked with such refinement and precision.' Florence would know, as craftsmanship is central to her fashion label. Although "craftsmanship" has become a buzzword, in today's fashion industry, it's no longer a given. Increasingly, reports from sources like The Business of Fashion reveal that even major luxury houses don’t always source all their materials from Europe or produce entire products locally.
'Treating people fairly, using honest production processes, and materials we can be proud of—these are our core values and are woven into everything we do. So when we started La Collection, that was a non-negotiable. We’re not a hundred percent perfect, but we certainly strive for it, especially when it comes to ethics.' They work extensively with small family businesses in Italy, which are struggling. 'The competition from distant countries is fierce. They offer nearly identical quality at a much lower price but without transparency about who and how the work is done. Meanwhile, know-how in Europe is rapidly disappearing.'
This makes La Collection’s business model challenging, with prices for a dress starting at just under 600 euros. But there is a clientele that prefers to save and invest in timeless quality, comparable to international fashion houses like Sweden's Totême and America's The Row. 'Clothing should remain fun,' Florence believes. 'And we want to be able to promise our customers: “Don’t worry, we’ve done the thinking for you. This truly is a good product.”'
It wasn’t always obvious that Florence would find her way into fashion. When she met Artur – she was 20, he was 22 – at a party hosted by mutual friends, she was still searching for her path. With a smile, she describes her husband as 'a deeply philosophical and therefore incredibly inspiring person.' Reflecting on that time, she says, 'He was studying Law, but the only subject that truly captivated him was Philosophy. That’s so typical of him – he’s endlessly curious and constantly questions everything.' This included Florence’s own direction in life. 'During our long conversations, I was often sketching. He would say, "You’re so creative, why not do something with it?" Oddly enough, I had never considered it a serious option. To this day, he remains my biggest cheerleader and source of inspiration.'
They come from different backgrounds, Florence explains, but that contrast has positively shaped both of them. 'Artur was born in Armenia, and his parents faced enormous challenges as refugees, starting over from scratch in Belgium and building a business from the ground up. They’re incredibly proud of that, and rightly so. I, on the other hand, had a more privileged upbringing, with the most loving parents and a comfortable start in life. Artur also comes from a warm, loving family, but he had to fight harder to get where he is today.' Perhaps that’s what drives his relentless determination: 'He believes that if you truly want something and work tirelessly for it, you’ll achieve it.' Their flourishing business and life today are proof of that belief.
Before launching La Collection in 2017, the couple ventured into the fashion world by opening Damoy, a multibrand store in Antwerp, in 2011 – despite having no prior experience in fashion or business. By 2014, it had evolved into an agency representing brands like the Scandinavian label Anine Bing. Starting their own brand was a daunting prospect, especially with the high standards they set for quality, but they’ve succeeded in cultivating a loyal following.
Both are avid collectors, and this passion is reflected throughout their home – from antique crystal glasses and a stylish oak Bang & Olufsen speaker to works by emerging artists they admire and occasionally collaborate with. In the kitchen, a handcrafted ceramic bowl by Belgian artist Marlies Huybs makes a striking statement. A wall sculpture in the living room is by Dutch artist Tessa de Rijk, while an Ileana Moro hangs above the fireplace in the kitchen. Near the elegant wrought iron and wooden staircase leading to the upper floors, a Mattias Storm piece graces the wall. ‘He’s a Swedish artist, still relatively unknown, who reached out to me on Instagram. We have a mutual appreciation for each other’s work.’
A painting by one of her current favourites, Catalan artist Aythamy Armas, adorns the living room wall. ‘We recently held an exhibition featuring his work in our Antwerp store.’ Belgian-British artist Eleanor Herbosch, one of the first artists the duo exhibited, is held in high regard. ‘I really admire her. She infuses earth from her own garden into her paint, creating beautiful textures.’ At the time of writing, Nathalie van der Massen’s unique textile art is on display at their Antwerp store.
Art and fashion have always been intertwined in Florence's life, but during her teenage years, she was still on a quest. ‘My family was deeply rooted in classical art movements, while I became increasingly fascinated by modern art as I grew older.’ She laughs: ‘Once something piques my interest, I do a deep dive. Reading books, watching documentaries, taking inspirational trips.’
Years ago, she wandered into an antique shop and was immediately captivated by a painting by Antoni Tàpies. ‘At that time, I knew nothing about this artist or the art movement, but it instantly fascinated me. The colours, technique, and the feelings it evoked. I immediately flew to Barcelona, where a foundation in his name was established.’
Many of La Collection's collections – usually no more than two per year – are inspired by modern artists. Alexander Calder, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró. ‘And more than once, Cy Twombly,’ Florence notes. ‘For example, we had a pinstripe inspired by his renowned Blackboard series. I played with the fabric to create a line that is almost straight, using a mohair thread that curls and frays just slightly.’
Florence and Artur travel frequently, including trips to Paris, where they partially reside. In 2018, the couple took up residence in an apartment in the 1st arrondissement, which they also open by appointment to serve as a showroom and store. ‘That was Artur’s brilliant idea,’ Florence praises her partner’s inventive thinking. ‘We were actively searching for a place to showcase our collections when he suggested, “Why don’t we invite people here?” The atmosphere, the music – this is, after all, our entire universe, and we want to immerse our guests in it.’
Paris holds significant meaning for them. ‘Our very first trip together was to Paris,’ Florence shares. ‘And there, we not only fell in love with the city but also with each other.’ Now, it has become their second home. Moreover, it is a prominent fashion hub where they increasingly make their mark – a mark of individuality and integrity that is becoming ever more crucial in today’s fashion world.
