Exploring Another Side of Mexico
A spontaneous one-way ticket to Mexico heralds a radiant sequence of highlights — from a frosted waterfall and a semi-healing experience to the wonder of the Emerald Coast and the behemoth that is Mexico City.
“Forests, deserts, snow-capped peaks, and crystal-clear rivers, during a road trip Mexico’s breathtaking landscape transforms dramatically”
‘Flechazo’ – or love at first sight – captures Pia Riverola’s immediate and lasting connection with Mexico City and its surrounding areas, such as the artistic haven of Oaxaca in the southwest and the picturesque retreat of Ixtapa on the Pacific coast. Pia Riverola, a photographer I met at a gathering hosted by Loot – a leading Mexican gallery, design hub, café, and radio station – moved from Madrid to Mexico in 2012 at the age of 23, instantly fell for the country’s infectious vibrancy and, ever since, has never looked back.
‘I can’t imagine life without the effervescent spirit of the Mexicans, the lush landscapes, and the idyllic beaches,’ Pia Riverola muses. Her decade-long photographic journey through Mexico is now beautifully encapsulated in her book, aptly titled Flechazo. This poetic visual chronicle is rich with vivid colours and imbued with a profound sense of yearning and nostalgia, reflecting my own experience of Mexico – a land replete with dazzling hues, noise everywhere, exuberant energy and warmth.
In all my travels, nowhere have I encountered such unbounded hospitality. People share generously – be it their wifi, mezcalita, or directions – even when they have little to offer. Whether you’re on the beach or in a speakeasy, you might find yourself unexpectedly invited to karaoke or to stay at a friend of a friend’s holiday home. Life here unfolds in a series of spontaneous, almost cinematic moments, set against the ever-present hum of the city. ‘That’s typical of Mexico City,’ laughs Yves Naman, founder of the boutique hotel group La Valise.
My journey begins here, in Mexico City. With nearly nine million residents, it’s a sprawling metropolis. The energy is palpable: it’s a whirlwind of chaos, but somehow it all harmoniously ties together. Local artist Mario Rangel reflects, ‘I doubt anyone truly knows the city in its entirety. Sometimes I chat with taxi drivers, and they all agree that no one can grasp the full essence of it. Sometimes, when I strike up a conversation with taxi drivers, they all affirm that no one really knows every single street – the city devours you; it’s a monster!’ Mexico City is a dynamic mix of creativity, art, design, and gastronomy, with a deep cultural history. This heritage is evident throughout the city: the major temple of the Aztec empire, Templo Mayor, located in the historic centre, was destroyed in 1521 during the Spanish conquest. The Spaniards built a cathedral in its place. In the 1970s, the temple was excavated and, where possible, restored. Since then, the sanctuaries have coexisted side by side.
In recent years, the number of immigrants in Mexico City has surged, primarily due to an influx of Americans. When the US went into lockdown during the pandemic, many Californians sought refuge in Mexico. However, the country also exerts a magnetic appeal on Europeans, including Claudia Jansen (33). ‘During a trip to Mexico three years ago, I fell head over heels for the country. I decided to emigrate.’ She has no regrets about that decision: ‘Every day is a new adventure. It can be something small, like hilarious miscommunications due to my wobbly Spanish. But also: an unexpected scorpion in the bathroom, a lizard in my taco, running outside like a madwoman when the garbage truck bell rings because there are no public bins, street vendors selling a lamp at the lunch table, almost getting arrested for drinking a beer on the street, or experiencing an earthquake where parked cars and street lamps sway in front of your eyes.’
Claudia is now engaged to a Mexican architect and works for creative agency Base, founded by a Mexican-Canadian couple, who also own the aforementioned Loot in the Roma neighbourhood. Roma is one of the trendiest areas in the city, along with La Condesa, Polanco, and Juárez, all situated roughly around the city park Bosque de Chapultepec. Yves Naman says: ‘You know what you rarely see anywhere else in the world except here? So many different architectural styles in adjacent neighbourhoods. From Roma, with its French architecture, to the distinct Art Deco style in La Condesa and Polanco.’
On weekends, you can immerse yourself in the pulsating nightlife of Mexico City, or, as many locals do, escape the city and venture into nature. During such road trips, the landscape transforms dramatically. Mexico boasts an incredible variety of natural beauty: forests, deserts, snow-capped peaks, and crystal-clear rivers. I travel with my boyfriend and our friend Luca, who lives in Mexico. Our first stop is the enchanting town of Tepoztlán, about two hours' drive away. Mexico has several such 'magical towns,' a designation given by the government to boost tourism, but Tepoztlán was one of the first and remains – according to insiders – one of the most authentic.
Globally, Tepoztlán is regarded as the cradle of the shamanistic community. A poster in a cocoa shop (highly recommended for its pure cocoa, which is said to 'open the heart') tempts us into a Mayan Healing. We call the number, provide our birth details, and are instructed to come the next day. At the appointed time, we wait in a dimly lit café for shaman Ccori, who unfortunately doesn’t show up. Hours later, just as we are about to leave, she calls: 'Sisters! It’s very important you come now! The portal is open!' suggesting she has made a spiritual connection with 'higher realms'. Though we take this with a grain of salt, leaving now doesn’t feel quite right. Instead, we head to the village to meet Ccori, who is dressed in vibrant traditional garments and is heavily smoking tobacco to aid the healing process. She gestures for us to come sit with her. With a mix of nervousness and excitement, we join her. Her healing resembles an astrological reading, but with animal totems believed to reveal insights into one’s personality, soul’s purpose, and relationships. After the session, we let her purifying, albeit perplexing, incantations wash over us. Did it benefit us? Hard to say… Afterwards, we feel noticeably lighter—or at least relieved. We take with us the white candles she lit during the ceremony, which we must keep burning until they extinguish on their own.
Back on the road, we set off for San Miguel de Allende. This picturesque town, steeped in Spanish colonial history, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. After a rather bumpy drive, we find solace at La Valise, a stunning hotel that was once the residence of Mexican artist Pedro Friedeberg. A contemporary of Frida Kahlo, Friedeberg is celebrated for his surrealist works, and his artistic influence is evident throughout the property. The thick walls are adorned with spiritual Aztec motifs, including serpents, suns, and moons. In our split-level suite, the most enchanting bathroom awaits us. Descending a few steps through wooden doors, we discover a vast, hexagonal bathtub, complete with a skylight above that invites a celestial view.
The heart of San Miguel de Allende, with its charming cobbled streets, is not only picturesque but has also become a vibrant hub for creatives. Among them is hat designer Alejandra ‘Suki’ Armendáriz, renowned for her contemporary sombreros made from Mexican palm leaves, and her partner Fabiola Padilla, who blends local spirits like sotol, raicilla, and mezcal with herbs from her own garden at her rooftop bar, Bekeb. The town is home to countless galleries, such as Arde Gallery, and just outside the city, you can enjoy glamping and horseback riding in the semi-desert landscape.
About a six-hour drive from Mexico City – allow extra time for traffic and occasionally tricky signage – but absolutely worth the journey: Oaxaca de Juárez, the capital of the state of Oaxaca. The pride of the locals is palpable. On the patio of Casa Antonieta, a historic monastery transformed into a hotel and café that has been in the family for generations, the host tells us: ‘Many residents still speak Zapotec, the indigenous language, and have left Spanish largely behind.’
Oaxaca is a region where Mexican craftsmanship is celebrated in abundance. The town itself is idyllic, but it's also worth renting a car or hiring a driver to tour the surrounding villages, each renowned for a different craft: pottery, wood carving, weaving, basketry, candle making, and embroidery. And not to be missed is the nearby natural beauty. The ‘frozen’ waterfall Hierve el Agua, with its natural hot springs so rich in calcium that the water appears to 'freeze' on the rocks, is one of the most remarkable sights of the trip.
To further immerse ourselves in the country’s cultural richness, we take a cooking class with Oscar at Casa Crespo. The chef guides us through the market, where we marvel at ingredients like huitlacoche (edible corn fungus), cactus, rambutan, worm salt, and grasshoppers. He shares vivid details about each ingredient, its potential medicinal properties, and the history behind Mexican cuisine, which varies greatly from region to region. We are pleased with our culinary creations, but the best meal of the trip is at Criollo in Oaxaca de Juárez: an intimate restaurant specializing in Oaxacan cuisine, celebrated for its abundant flavors, thanks to the area's rich biodiversity.
After all the city dwelling, Mexico’s unspoiled coastline beckons. From Oaxaca de Juárez, it’s about a six-hour drive to Puerto Escondido – or simply Puerto to the locals – a beloved spot among surfers since the 1970s. Recently, this small town has evolved into a vibrant hub for art, architecture, and design. The shift began in 2014 with the opening of Casa Wabi by sculptor and painter Bosco Sodi. This artist residency and non-profit initiative connects artists with local craftsmen. Designed by the acclaimed Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Casa Wabi features weathered concrete walls, expansive open spaces, and thatched roofs. In the heart of Puerto, La Punta Zicatela, you’ll find an array of lively dining and nightlife options, along with stylish accommodations, such as Casa To. Inside Casa To, the space feels otherworldly: a concrete fortress or temple with water flowing beneath lofty arches, surrounded by lush plants and touches of emerald green.
From the beach, I call my boyfriend, who has taken a week off in Tulum to visit a friend. I had already warned him about Tulum, and he’s not exactly thrilled to be there. While Tulum boasts stunning cenotes (caves with water pools), ancient temples, and an infamous party scene, it’s also overrun with tourists. The town itself is essentially a long, densely built strip along the beach, teeming with influencers at every corner, especially during peak season. Every Mexican I speak to doesn’t seem particularly enthusiastic when mentioning Tulum. Will Puerto face a similar fate? ‘Fortunately, the local government has been vigilant about the mistakes made in Tulum and is now much stricter about who can purchase coastal land and for what purpose,’ says my friend Luca, who bought a piece of land in Puerto Escondido a few years ago to start a guesthouse and gallery. Puerto will likely become more popular in the coming years, but it seems poised to retain its distinctive, authentic charm. And that’s an experience you definitely don’t want to miss.
