Artist Johanna Van Parijs' Costa Rican Hideaway
A fearless, adventurous spirit in a virtually untouched land. Belgian artist Johanna Van Parijs discovered her 'spiritual haven' in the wilds of Costa Rica, a place she has now been calling home for half of her life.
“‘Living out here forces you to be honest with yourself; the energy is charged and you’re constantly challenged to look in the mirror and work on yourself’”
Tucked away on a ridge between kapok and papaya trees, Johanna Van Parijs (41) lives with her son Theodore (9) and her partner Spoon (56). Above a green-painted wall, where sunlight weaves playful patterns, a simple sign reads: 'Spoon’s Farm'. Spoon, whose full name is Sampuran Singh, bought this land two decades ago. Two years ago, he began building his retreat, and a year later, Johanna joined him. They live with minimal electricity, relying solely on solar power. From the sun-drenched terrace on the top floor, the coastline shimmers in the distance – the Pacific Ocean’s beaches are dazzlingly white, the surf waves perfection. Reaching this jungle sanctuary is no small feat: the last forty-five minutes of the journey require a quad bike ride along a bumpy track, crossing shallow streams, and then climbing a sandy path up to their home. White cows and chattering chickens often wander freely around the garden, sometimes even venturing inside. Recently, they added a glass wall on the ground floor, offering views of the garden, the fish pond, and the surrounding jungle – a rarity in this region, where homes are typically open to the elements.
For Johanna, the distinction between indoors and outdoors has long blurred. She knows the jungle as intimately as the back of her hand. 'The wind, the sun, the light – it's all so vivid here. There’s no real separation between inside and out. Nature is overwhelming, setting the pace of our days. Every morning, I’m struck with awe as the sky blazes pink and the howler monkeys begin their chorus at dawn.' The jungle is the heartbeat of this place, and over time, it has become a part of Johanna herself, an inseparable presence wherever she goes.
Costa Rica, known as one of the world’s Blue Zones – regions where people live longer than average – may seem idyllic, but life here is far from easy, as Johanna points out. 'Living here forces you to be honest with yourself, to constantly work on who you are. There’s a powerful energy here – we’re close to the equator, and the land carries the echoes of sacred rituals performed by the indigenous people. In Belgium, the energy is more like a gentle stream; here, it’s intensely charged. It’s not for everyone. Some people fall in love with it, others can’t handle it. It’s often a matter of survival – you’re constantly challenged. The car breaks down, there’s no internet for days, and you have no choice but to accept it. It’s a lesson in humility.'
The family resides in a large shack made of tropical wood, which Johanna personalized when she moved in with Spoon a year ago. She added more feng shui (avoiding narrow corridors in favor of open, flowing areas and mirrors reflecting the nature outside), a slightly more feminine energy (candles and her own art), and more 'bold colours', as she calls them. Johanna says, 'Our other house in the high, cold mountain region of Chirripó is an explosion of pink hues with a floor entirely painted in royal blue.' A sunny yellow shade now brightens one of the bedrooms on the new second floor. On this top floor, there used to be a flat roof, but Spoon and Johanna added two bedrooms and a walk-in bathroom – with Johanna’s most desired feature, a bathtub. 'You live outdoors a lot here, which I thrive on, but lately, I’ve felt the need to retreat inside more, so I’m especially happy with these spaces.' In the evenings, she lights candles and plays soft music. It’s her sanctuary with a cosy, cocoon-like vibe.
Then there were the practical matters, Johanna laughs: 'When I was newly pregnant, I tumbled down the narrow spiral staircase, so we quickly replaced it with a staircase with wide, solid wooden steps.' The stairwell and the entire farm, even down to the ocean, are adorned with her paintings and sculptures. Gigantic, colourful wooden panels with geometric patterns, collage-like paintings, and furniture that resembles art objects, all handcrafted with care. She describes the eclectic mix of styles in the house as 'different cultures harmoniously coming together': her European touch combined with the laid-back Hawaiian and Californian influences of her partner Spoon, who lived in Hawaii and California for a long time.
Fearless – that’s one way to describe Johanna. Someone who follows her own intuition and vision, even if she didn’t have role models to guide her. ‘I’ve always been the outsider, following my own path.’ Having grown up in the Belgian coastal town of Ostend, she has now lived in Costa Rica for many years. The youngest in her family, with an older brother and sister, she was the first to pursue higher education, first in Bruges and later at the Sint-Lucas Academy in Ghent, studying 3D design and eventually earning a master’s degree in video art.
It was Johanna’s dream to become an artist, but she felt she didn’t yet have enough life experience to make it happen. So she decided to take a sabbatical and travel extensively. Her first stop: Oman, where, at the age of twenty-one, she and her then-boyfriend set up a desert camp. She personally decorated the camp with trinkets and beautiful fabrics from the area. Oman played a significant role in her personal development. ‘It’s a very mystical, meditative place. We lived a secluded life among the Bedouins. At night, it’s pitch black, with only the stars sparkling in the sky as if you’re alone in the world – the moon shining brightly, like a personal guide. I started dreaming a lot. Memories of my childhood resurfaced, including my father’s alcoholism and the realization that it had indeed affected me. I understood why I was experiencing panic attacks. I needed to process that, and fortunately, I was able to do so there.’
Although Oman was formative for Johanna, that intense phase of her life was short-lived. ‘At a certain point, I felt that my creativity was getting blocked. I was constantly busy setting things up and felt that this was less appreciated in that predominantly male world. I had felt that way at the academy as well.’ It was time for a new chapter. Not back to Belgium, but from the Middle East to Central America, where they had previously secured a piece of land near a Costa Rican surf spot. ‘We bought the plot based on photos from good friends. I immediately felt: yes, this is where I want to be!’ So the duo moved there with all their belongings and a backpack full of dreams. It turned into a few idyllic years. ‘We shared the land with those friends, who set up a music studio there. At first, there was absolutely nothing, not even a little restaurant nearby, but it was magical. I’ve never regretted that decision for a second.’
After four years in Costa Rica, small cracks began to appear in the relationship, and Johanna decided to go it alone. She moved in with a dear friend, with whom she had a whirlwind romance and soon found herself pregnant. ‘That pregnancy was a great gift. My son’s name is Theodore, which means “gift from God,” and that’s exactly what he is,’ Johanna says, beaming. ‘At the same time, it marked a drastic turning point in my life, as I quickly realized that the close friendship with Theo’s father would not blossom into lasting love.’
She moved with her son to the village of Santa Teresa, where she started a massage practice and a home gallery. Gradually, Johanna built a team that allowed her to take on interior and art commissions on a larger scale, eventually leading to her own workshop. Starting small, growing step by step. Every penny she earned went straight back into the business. ‘I did save up for a full-time nanny, with whom I’m still close. It also helps that the community here is very tight-knit.’
That sense of community is even more vital because, in the jungle, people simply rely on each other. If you need something like a child’s car seat, it’s an eight-hour drive to the capital or a trip back and forth by propeller plane to get it. That’s why locals often shop together, lend each other sugar or water, and look after each other’s children. Johanna recalls, ‘At one point, I had to create sixty artworks. The whole community was called upon—the women, even the priests—to help put the pieces together. The people here are very warm and helpful. I also collaborate a lot with local artisans.’
Johanna is grateful that Theodore, and soon the baby, will grow up in Costa Rica. ‘Every evening, everyone gathers on the beach to watch the sunset. It’s like a concert—so beautiful it takes your breath away. Here, you’re directly connected to nature, living with the elements, which makes you feel freer and ultimately more independent.’ The rainy season brings an incredible lushness, with the emerald green foliage appearing even more vibrant under a veil of dewdrops. But it’s also a challenging time, with fierce thunderstorms often raging at night. And then there are the animals that come out during the rainy season, like the large red crabs that make their relentless journey from the mountains to the beach—marching in a straight line, undeterred by villages or houses in their path.
For eight years, Johanna navigated life as a single mother, laser-focused on her purpose. Then, last year, she met Spoon unexpectedly, and it was love at first sight. Johanna recalls, ‘I was invited to a new art festival in Punta Islita. During my exhibition, Spoon walked in. The moment we locked eyes, I knew – this was my person! I’d never felt that way with anyone before. From that day, we were inseparable, and a month later, I moved in with him.’
For eight years, Johanna navigated life as a single mother, laser-focused on her purpose. Then, last year, she met Spoon unexpectedly, and it was love at first sight. Johanna recalls, ‘I was invited to a new art festival in Punta Islita. During my exhibition, Spoon walked in. The moment we locked eyes, I knew – this was my person! I’d never felt that way with anyone before. From that day, we were inseparable, and a month later, I moved in with him.’
Spoon was born Sampuran Singh, an Indian name given by his parents, who were devoted yogis. At the age of ten, they sent him to an ashram to continue his upbringing – an experience he rarely discusses, and understandably so. Johanna reflects, ‘I sensed that he carried a lot from his past. His experiences made him wary of spirituality, but he’s gradually opening up to it, thanks to the lighthearted way I approach it. While he’s not an artist, he definitely has a creative spirit. Spoon creates wherever he goes – whether it’s cultivating trees and plants in our garden, setting up a restaurant in Venice Beach, or establishing a bar in Kauai. He’s fifteen years older, more grounded than I am, and less chaotic. That brings me peace – in my work, within myself, and especially during this second pregnancy. My last pregnancy was all about survival, but now I don’t have to do it alone. Spoon takes so much off my plate, allowing me to embrace my femininity and softness. This love has been incredibly healing for me.’ She pauses, then adds, ‘It’s like when I first arrived in Costa Rica, but this time, it’s much more peaceful.’
Her modern family is putting down new roots, with a new chapter about to begin. This spring, Johanna is expecting her second child, a daughter who will likely be named Pippa Rose. ‘Friends often tell me that my tumultuous journey was meant to bring me here. It really does feel that way.’
